In the heart of Delhi’s swankiest area lies a monument with a forgotten story. Like most others its tale too was lost among the snazzy malls that came to replace the landmarks of Delhi. Safdarjung tomb lies at the intersection of Safdarjung Road, Aurobindo Marg and Lodhi Road and takes one by surprise as it pops out of nowhere. It stands at the Centre of these busy roads which connects Khan Market, Jor Bagh and the Safdarjung Airport like a silent spectator of development and evolution of Delhi from the 1754 till today, as the rulers of Delhi changed from its creators, the Mughals, to the colonial rule of British and later India’s Independent Government. Built for Mirza Muqim Abul Mansur Khan, Governor of Oudh during the rule of Muhammad Shah and later the Prime Minister to Shah’s successor, Ahmad Shah, this is one of the most famous monuments built during the final years of Mughal rule.
At the very entrance, there is a slab, explaining the history of the tomb in not just English and Hindi, but also in Braille. Entry charges are Rs 5 per head and for shooting videos, one need to pay Rs 25 extra. Despite being at the centre of such a busy road outside, and construction inside, a quiet calm takes over as soon as one enters the main archway. While walking through the passage that leads to the tomb, what is striking is not the magnificence of the monument, but the passage itself, which has become a parking lot. Dark, dingy and slightly cold, the main passage is supposed to be the first spot from where the entire monument can be seen through the arch. But instead, the passage way is decorated with cycles and scooters of the workers, who are repairing this structure. Infact turning around towards the entrance (which now becomes the exit) provides for an even more interesting sight. Through the 18th century arch, one can see the cars, buses and tucks of the 21st century zip past. It almost seems like looking through a time portal stuck between two eras.
The first look at the monument is breath taking. It warms the visitor with its splendour and yet imposes its beauty in the most unassuming way. The vast expanse of ground on which this monument stand could be better maintained as it seems rather barren at the moment. The dried lake too is an eyesore, especially since the two together give a feeling of being transported into a desert. But the dome with its partly fallen tiles and the minarets with airy windows take your attention away from these small flaws. Once at the stairway, it is advisable to stop and prepare oneself for the beauty that lies ahead. Even midway through the steep stairs, the minarets and veranda start peeing, like a child playing hide and seek. The central balcony catches the eye with its beautifully carved frame. And just as one adjusts the eye to the marvel of the minarets around, a look at the ceiling would leave one even more astound. Typical to all architectures of the Mughal era, the ceiling is ornate and has flower designs in the centre of a symmetrical yet unique array of lines, which create an illusion of depth. The main hallway looks into smaller ones on either side, all equally exquisite. With the sunlight creeping up, the shadows along with the patterns on the walls create an fascinating view. The locked up doors along the way create a mystery and curiosity to know what lies beyond.
Back at the veranda, one must take time to sit at the corner and watch the dome and minarets closely. Infact if lucky enough, the pigeons on the windows would suddenly fly around the dome twice before settling back into their cosy spots, but only to resume the parikrama once again. This is quiet spectacular and the birds around the dome make it more picturesque.
Walk around and discover hidden corners and history tucked away between dust and time. There are fascinating things around. The women who clean in their vibrant sarees, taking a break, while sipping ‘chai’ and the old man who shys away when he sees the camera and the guard who stand at the entrance of door stocked with papers and books (try sneaking in if you can) add a touch of life, to what otherwise could have become just another monument. Everyone is bound to find something for themselves here-the loner gets his silence, the lovebirds find their peace, photographers discover locations and architects get a look at what is considered the last flick in the light of the Mughal architecture. But most importantly, nearly everyone would find one thing for sure-Inspiration.
